growing microgreens

How To Grow Micro-greens

Micro-greens are very easy to grow. You can grow them outside, in a garden bed or in containers, or inside on a sunny windowsill.

If you are planting micro-greens in a garden bed, loosen the soil and rake it smooth. Scatter your seed mix so that the seeds are about 1/8 to 1/4 inch apart -- remember, we're harvesting them very young, so they don't need a lot of room. Once the seed is scattered over the area, cover it with about 1/8 of an inch of soil and water gently but thoroughly.

If you're planting in a container, the first step is to choose a container that is at least two inches deep and as large in diameter as you want. Fill it with a good quality organic potting mix, and smooth the soil. Scatter the seeds so that they are about 1/8 to 1/4 inch apart, and cover with 1/8 inch of soil. Water gently but thoroughly, an place your container in a spot where it will get at least four hours of sunlight. If you're growing them indoors, a south-facing window is best, but an eastern or western-facing one will do as well.

In either case, do not let the soil dry out, and be sure to remove any weeds so that the tiny greens don't have to compete with them for water and nutrients. Because you'll be harvesting the greens so young, you don't really need to fertilize them while they're growing. If you've got plenty of organic matter in your garden bed, that will be perfect. For containers, mixing in a bit of granular organic fertilizer to the soil before you plant will work fine, especially if you plan on using the same soil for several plantings of greens (more on this below.) Micro-greens grow for such a short period of time that they are rarely bothered by pests and diseases. However, if you are growing brassicas in your mix (mustard, kale, etc.) and cabbage worms are a problem, you may want to cover your micro-greens with a floating row cover to protect them.

Harvesting Micro-greens

The best time to harvest micro-greens is when they've developed their first set of true leaves (the first ones are seed leaves, and don't look anything like the actual leaves of the plant), which is generally about ten days to two weeks after planting. To harvest, simply snip the micro-greens just above soil level.

Unlike mesclun or baby greens, you won't be able to get additional harvests from one planting of micro-greens. Because the plants haven't had much time to develop, and you're snipping off everything except the very bottom of the stem, the plant has no way to generate new growth. You can plant another crop after harvest by simply scattering fresh seed and covering it with soil. You don't need to remove the old roots; they are good sources of organic matter.

As you can see, micro-greens are simple to grow, and provide you with a quick harvest for not much work. You can add them to salads, sandwiches, or stir-fries, and it's much cheaper to grow your own than it is to purchase them. Experiment with different mixes, adding the varieties you like best. They're definitely deserving of a spot in your garden.

INFORMATION FROM PINETREE GARDENS WITH SEED ORDER

Time to start your onion seeds

I got my onion seeds in seeded and on the light table yesterday.  I am not optimistic on snow melt this year so I waited an extra week or two later than normal.  Ailsa Craig was my onion of choice this year.  Keeping better records of seeding and germination times this year with the help of an Excel table.  I will let you know how well I do that.

If you haven't ordered your seeds yet...it is time!  Don't let something new and interesting not be in your garden because it is out of stock.

Once you get them, sit down and plan out your garden and seeding schedule.  Once the warm weather arrives, you will be happy you did.

Besides, what else are you doing on a cold but sunny winter's day that can't wait while you soak it up by a sunny window?

Time to start seeds, spring is coming...I just know it!

I officially have all my seed orders in hand with the exception of the items that get shipped later (after the ground is no longer covered with two feet of snow.

Rather than re-write the whole process, I will just share my link to the prior post on seed starting.  

Gardeners have hope.  We look at tiny seeds the size of a period and see new life.  It is amazing to know that in that capsule that looks like a comma, there are tomatoes that will grace our table at the end of summer.

I have a word of caution to those starting seeds indoors by themselves.  Please remember the essentials for success:

• Sanitation-Make sure everything you have is sterile (pots, soil, table...) and use only new soil starter.  It does not pay to cheap out and deal with consequences of insects and disease problems.
• Warmth-seeds need warmth to start in 99% of our garden crops unless it is something you are direct seeding later, even then it needs some warmth.  Germination percentages will be greatly affected if you choose to compromise on their needs here.  It also can affect the success of seedlings.  Damping off can take everything if you don't keep the seedlings warm as well.  Germination mats and domed covers will help you control the temperatures in ways that costs so little for your gain.
• Water-Moisture is essential in the correct amounts.  Too little, and your germination suffers.  Too much, and your germination suffers.  You should find the happy medium where you are not blowing dust off the top of your trays and you can hardly lift your trays because of the water content.  It is best if you check them at least once a day.  Domed lids will help you regulate this as far as water loss is concerned.
• Light-Plants can't live without it.  Even seeds that germinate best with dark conditions need light once they break that seed coat.  Keeping seedlings within 6" of their light source is best.  A sunny south window is still not enough light in the northern climates at this time of year.  Always use some sort of supplemental light, even a florescent shop light will do.

Look at your seed packets and try to time out your crops to their optimal starting time.  I error on the side of caution and time them for the shorter time (later rather than sooner) so I am not dealing with larger plants indoors because it is too cold to move them out. Plan your seeding ahead of time and then you will be able to move through the season with less worries about forgetting something or not timing your crops as needed.  

Happy Spring...I know it's coming!

Mid-Winter's Dream

It is winter.  It has been a long winter.  Not in terms of days, but in terms of snow.  It's not a lot of snow, I've seen more.  It is a continuous snow.  It keeps falling in one inch, two inch sometimes more.  It takes a long time to fall.  The sun comes out briefly, then the clouds come back and the snow comes again.  It doesn't seem that winter will ever end.  
I have my plants huddled in the basement, waiting.  They grow towards light that only comes because electricity makes it so.  They are warm because the furnace blows warm air into their confined space.  They are patiently waiting for the longer days of summer when they can put down roots and reach towards the sun.  I am not that patient.
On the sunny days I enjoy the warmth that comes through my truck window.  I have to get out, and it is cold.  Not 20's or 30's cold.  Below zero cold.  Day after day.  The sunny days make it all tolerable.  The furnace makes it livable.  The alcohol makes it bearable.  This is Wisconsin.
I thank God for the birds.  I feed them and they come. Cardinals, chickadees, woodpeckers, nuthatches, and of course, sparrows and finches.  They add life to the white landscape that is my yard.  The cardinals have been coming in flocks.  I notice this the last two weekends.  Up to six pairs at a time.  February will start the songs of mating.  So far they are quiet.  They come and eat the sunflower seeds, taking turns at the feeder.  They do not sing.  They eat.  When I hear the males break out their songs of spring, I know that we are headed towards spring.  Until then...we eat.