Motivation finally struck and I got busy seeding today. Furlough days from work can be good for something. When I have several items to seed, I will do them all in a single tray. Start off with a tray filled half way with sterile potting soil. Add about 1/2" of seed starting mix which is a light weight mix usually with a higher volume of vermiculite. Avoid breathing vermiculite in as it is not good for your lungs. Level the mix and water down the tray so the water soaks to the bottom. For each row of seeds I will cut a line as deep as recommended with a seed tag.
There are several options for dispensing the seed. I have a small plastic seeder which has various size openings depending on the seed. I like this one for outdoors so the seed does not blow around. In the house a small wax envelope that some seeds are packaged in is still my favorite tool.
I fold the envelope to create a channel down the lower edge. Pinch the upper edge between the thumb and middle finger and gently tap with the index finger to nudge the seed gently out the end. It takes some practice but works well once you get the hang of it.
Cut deeper rows for larger seed and space out so the seedlings will be easily extracted from their neighbor as they grow.
Mark each row as you go. Put like things together (i.e. petunias, impatiens, tomatoes, etc.) as they usually geminate at similar rates. Allow at least 1 1/2-2" between different varieties so if one is ready to transplant before the others, you will not disturb the smaller plants while extracting your transplants.
Cover with additional seeding mix lightly as you have already provided the depth with your furrows. Mist in the plants lightly and place on a warming mat or in a location that will not go through extreme temperature changes. Setting it in a bay window which has curtains or blinds closed from the room overnight will probably get too chilly for many seeds trying to germinate. Use a thermometer and look at the seed packets to determine the proper temperature range. Some seeds prefer light while others prefer dark germination. This information is also provided on your seed packet as well as days to sprout.
I have some domed lids that I will use to keep warmth and humidity up in my germination trays. I will off-set the cover during the day as sunlight tends to make it too warm inside this dome. Keep trays misted as they start to dry. Too wet is just as bad as too dry. One will rot your germinating seeds while the other will kill them as they try to root and sprout with too little moisture.
For some plants that do not like to be transplanted as much (today it was my Thunbergia seeds) I will use small, individual cell packs to start them. First I fill them to the top with sterile potting mix. Then I depress the seed to the proper depth and cover with seed starting mix. I used the additional cells to start some lettuce, raddichio and other cold crops which I will transplant out to the garden when they are started. Water the cells well and check daily for drying, misting as needed until the plants germinate and send up their first set of leaves or cotyledons. The second set to form will be the true leaves. Most plants will be ready to transplant after they have one or two sets of true leaves. I will cover transplanting when my own plants are ready to go. Have fun seeding.
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